Albino Bull Frog (sm/med)
Quantity in Basket:
Shipping Weight: 1.00 pounds
Species: The American Bullfrog or Rana Catesbeinana belong to the to the family of True Frogs or Ranidae.
Origin: The bullfrogs are native to North America as their name suggests and are found extensively throughout the United States.
Size and Longevity:
Bullfrogs are large animals and can grow to between 3 and 6 inches in length and in some cases, as large as 8 inches. One must note that this measurement does not include the frogs legs, which can attain up to 10 inches in length.
Females make up the upper limit of the size measurements as they are significantly larger than males, which normally are slimmer and smaller in size.
They are very hardy and long-living amphibians, often surviving up to 15 years in captivity, if cared for properly.
Albino Bullfrogs are extremely rare and are equally sought after as exotic pets. While their non-albino counterparts are green colored or brownish green at times, albinos total body, including the pupil of the eye is cream to off-white in color.
Apart from this distinction, the Albino Bullfrog is the same as any other, with a two-tier skeleton and the lack of ribs that runs in the Ranidae family. The females have a tympanic membrane equal to the size of their eyes that help them hear. Males however have a much larger tympanum since they have the added burden of listening to the receptive females response over the din the other males cause during the mating season.
Habitat and Caging Requirements:
Given the size these guys grow to, it is advisable to have a 40-60 gallon terrarium to house two or three Albino Bullfrogs. With the pun intended, the `biggest` problem with these frogs is their size but as for their caring requirements, they are light-years ahead of other species like tomato frogs or tree frogs that are definitely high-maintenance. Even an 8-year-old will be able to care for these guys with ease.
However it is important to note that bullfrogs are aquatic by nature and will want to go for an occasional swim. Hence it is required to have a terrarium that has a significant water-body in it.
Albino bullfrogs are not very particular about the climate and can survive in a temperature range of 62-62 degrees Fahrenheit at night, to about 84 degrees during daytime. An average of 77-83 is ideal during daytime, which can be achieved by using a thermostat controlled heating bulb or an under-tank heater.
While these frogs can survive varying temperatures, it is a good practice to have a thermometer placed inside the terrarium so you know your frog is not feeling too hot or too cold.
These frogs require a bit of humidity in the air to simulate their native habitat in the wild, which is always right next to a pond or a lake. Misting the terrarium once or twice a day will help maintain the moisture in it. The thumb rule to misting is to prevent the formation of droplets on the sides of the tank. However, using a hygrometer to measure the humidity and maintaining it between 60-80% will work best.
The habitat ecology and substrate
The Albino Bullfrog needs its habitat to be apt to its nature and its unique requirements. When designing the terrariums interiors, you must remember that these frogs are
Huge when compared to other species
Extremely agile and can leap as long as 6 feet
Shy creatures (need hiding places
lots of them)
Nocturnal (active at night)
Hence, the terrarium you house them in should
The Terrarium: Be big enough for the frog to be able to live its normal life, which includes a bit of jumping around, swimming a lot, and moving around.
The Soil and substrate: Have a layer of dirt or gravel with a pulverized coconut fiber or bark bedding combined with few moist paper towels to form the substrate.
Props and plants: Have a few small plants, a few hiding spots for the frog, a hot-spot and a cool-shade, both shaded from public view, so the frog doesnt feel insecure when it is basking or chilling out.
Water: Have an ample sized swimming pool, preferably about one-third the size of the terrarium surface area, so the frog can do a few laps when it feels like a swim.
One important thing to note is that you will need to thoroughly de-chlorinate the water you use in the terrarium, both for the frogs pond as well as for misting. Frogs are extremely sensitive to acidic environments and can die very quickly if you use water with chlorine or any other impurities.
It is best to use either fresh rain water or tap water, treated with a standard de-chlorinator and left overnight to become slightly stale. You can get a de-chlorinator from your local pet store or from the shopping page of this website.
If you are using a filter, make sure it is small, as larger filters remove small organisms that help maintain a pH closer to 7 (7 on the pH scale is absolute neutral that is neither acidic nor alkaline).
Note: If you are unsure about anything related to your frog, please contact your pet store. Its always better safe than sorry.
Temperature and Lighting Requirements:
As frogs are Ectothermic, they need a bit of heating and cooling to maintain their body temperatures within the range that they would normally like it to be. Using a thermostat controlled heating lamp or an Under-tank-heater (UTH), to maintain an average temperature of about 77 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit. Night temperatures can dip right down to 62 degrees Fahrenheit, without adversely affecting bullfrogs. So you can turn off the heating during night time.
They also need approximately 12 hours of daylight and you can use a timed fluorescent lamp to achieve this. While white fluorescent light is not bad, it is best to use a day-light bulb that emits a light with a color temperature range of 5000 to 6000 Kelvin.
Since they are extremely active at night, if you wish to observe your bullfrog jumping around and going on a feeding binge, you can install a red light bulb in your terrarium as amphibians and reptiles cannot see in the Red spectrum of light. They will think it is pitch dark and go about their normal activity.
Feeding and Nutrition:
Bullfrogs are gluttonous. They will eat anything you throw at them, from snakes to mice, to practically every single animal they can attack and kill. So feeding these guys will never really be a problem.
They usually grab their prey with their mouths and use their fore-limbs to shove the little critter into their mouths, where they chew a bit and swallow.
If you do this and are feeding the frog with crickets, it is best to stick a small wedge of potato in a corner of the terrarium, where the crickets will congregate and have a feast, making sure they are alive and healthy when they are guided by the frogs fore-limbs into its mouth.
Staple & Supplemental Insects:
Nightcrawlers, crickets, earthworms, pinky mice, small fish like guppies, you name it, and these guys want it as their staple diet. Since bullfrogs are nocturnal, you may wish to put in their feed before they actually get into a feeding frenzy.
If you ensure a variety in the diet, you will have one happy and healthy frog. But it is advisable to dust the crickets or worms with a little multivitamin and calcium powder frequently so they get their supplements on time. Juvenile bullfrogs might need a more frequent supplement.
Handling is always an issue when it comes to frogs, since they are very allergic to oils and fats. The cold cream or body lotion you apply on your hands to prevent dry skin can damage the skin of the bullfrog so much so that it can fall sick and die. It is always advised to wash your hands thoroughly before touching these animals. However, you should not use soap to wash your hands before handling your Albino bullfrog, as soap is also equally damaging to the frogs skin.
If your pet is new, you must give it a little while to understand its new home, and you, as its owner. A hands-off approach for the first week or two, combined with a good variety of feed will make it happy enough to allow you to handle it without the frog freaking out.
By and far, there are only two ways to tell an albino male from a female. First by the size of their tympanic membrane - if it is larger than the eye, then it is a male. Second by its size - larger normally equals female, although this is not a fool-proof method.
Felton Willis Jr.